To be completely honest, while the hipster hens liked the book, they loved the scratch grain in front of the book. |
Why Did The Chicken Cross The World? The Epic Saga of the Bird That Powers Civilization
Andrew Lawler
Atria Books
2014
2014
Andrew Lawler has been writing for thirty years on topics as
diverse as space, politics, and archeology for publications ranging from The
Futurist to Science Magazine. He has
written extensively on Middle-Eastern archeology, and when he heard that
archeologists working on a beach on the Arabian Peninsula had discovered
evidence that Indian-Arabian trade routes across the Indian Ocean existed as
early as 4000 years ago, he pitched the idea for an article to a magazine. When he mentioned to the magazine editor that
the various items the archeology team had excavated from their dig site at the
beach included an apparent chicken bone, the editor was intrigued. That, he felt, was the story. Chickens were first domesticated in Asia, so
was this an indicator of the one of the earliest movements of chickens to other
cultures? Lawler did some research on
the domestication of the chicken and its movement around the world, then flew
to Oman to meet with the team of archeologists.
“The chicken bone?” the dig director told him, “Oh…We think it was
misidentified. It probably came from one of our workmen’s lunches.”
But by this point, Lawler had become captivated by the
history of the chicken and aware of the dearth of information on the subject. Archeologists, anthropologists and historians
tend to focus major attention on big animals—horses, oxen, and swine have all
had their research and publications.
Chickens, not so much. The
ubiquitous domestic chicken has been taken for granted. And Andrew Lawler has done much to rectify
the situation by writing this book.
Having discovered his topic, Lawler writes like a kid in a
candy store, rushing from one compelling chicken related topic to the
next. He discusses the wild jungle fowl
of Asia and its role as the progenitor of the domestic chicken, then segues into
the chicken’s place in ancient societies and the movement of the fowl across
the Pacific. Then he momentarily touches
on cockfighting in the Philippines before shifting gears to talk about the popularity of domestic chicken keeping in Victorian England and the
advent of poultry science there. From
there he moves to Charles Darwin’s research into the taxonomy of chickens and
how it influenced his thinking on evolution before finally settling down in the
last third of his book for a discussion of the industrialization of chicken
husbandry and the huge impact that has had on both humans and chickens.
Today over twenty billion chickens inhabit our planet at any given
moment–three for every human. Most of
them live in dismal, overcrowded, anonymous buildings at the edge of human population
centers. Modern chickens are identified
by “model numbers” rather than breed names, are overbred into grotesque
monsters in order to promote rapid growth and ungainly meaty breast muscles,
are fed a constant diet of vitamins and antibiotics and are kept in tiny indoor
spaces until the day they are slaughtered. Then their bodies are often turned
into anatomically unidentifiable bits of meat nuggets that are sold to the consumer. “You don’t have to be vegan to wonder if it
is right to put another entire species in perpetual pain in order to satisfy a
craving for chicken salad and deviled eggs,” Lawler asserts. After visiting large scale chicken operations
in Delaware, Lawler drives south to Virginia to a “chicken rescue” operation
run by an animal rights activist named Karen Davis. Her back yard is filled with the wretched
refuse of the modern chicken industry—rescued factory chickens with their
grotesque breast muscles and commercial egg-lying hens with the ends of their
beaks cut off to prevent them from pecking each other in their confined battery
cages who are now trying pathetically to spear worms with their amputated
beaks. “Chickens are doomed,” Davis
says, “It is the doom of proliferation, not extinction. I think it is a doom worse than
extinction. I think chickens are in hell
and are not going to get out. They are
already in hell and there are just going to be more of them.”
Finally, Lawler visits Joyce Farms in North Carolina. Like a growing number of farmers, Ron Joyce
is proving that chicken farming can still be both humane and economically
viable. Smaller flocks, better feed, and
a longer growing time means that Joyce Farms chickens sell for twice the price
of a factory farm raised bird, but they are chickens that consumers can enjoy
for their markedly better flavor and can eat with a clear conscience.
While I value this book for the story it tells about the domestication
and dispersal of chickens, I also appreciate it for telling the story of the
sins of modern industrial chicken farming.
Telling the story, ultimately, will be the best way to get the poultry
industry to change. As the humane
chicken farmer, Ron Joyce, points out, “People vote with their pocket
books.” It is consumer apathy more than
corporate greed that is fueling this modern poultry travesty. As more people begin to learn that cheap
chicken and cheap eggs come at a price, then it will be these very consumers
who will institute a change.
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